We’ve come to use the word ‘curry’ as an umbrella term for almost anything cooked in a spiced sauce. Some people object to this liberal use of the word (which derives from the Tamil ‘kari’, meaning sauce) to cover a vast range of dishes and see it as a gross mashup of various culinary traditions. But, to me, ‘curry’ is just a shorthand for a collection of dishes that I love. All of them make clever use of spice to create a nuanced concoction that is both complex and comforting. They are rich, filling and immensely satisfying, and are all best served on rice.
Fish butter curry with cucumber and lime salsa (pictured above)
This is a wonderfully rich curry based on a delicate balance between the richness of coconut cream and butter and the delicate acidity of tomatoes.
Prep 20 min
Cook 70 min
Serves 4
1¼ tsp ground ginger
½ tbsp ground fenugreek
1 tsp ground coriander
8 cardamom pods, shells discarded and seeds removed and crushed in a mortar
½ tsp ground allspice
½ tbsp smoked paprika
⅛th tsp ground cinnamon
450g sustainably-sourced hake (or other firm white fish), skinned, pin-boned and cut into 5cm pieces
1 tbsp olive oil
Salt and black pepper
350g small new potatoes (halved if large), skin on
3 tbsp unsalted butter
2-3 banana shallots, finely chopped (125g net weight)
2 small green chillies, finely chopped (deseeded, if you prefer less heat)
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
300g cherry tomatoes
1½ tbsp tomato paste
220g coconut cream, plus 1 tbsp to serve
500ml fish stock
For the salsa
½ cucumber (100g), cut into 1cm dice
1 small green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1-2 spring onions, finely chopped (15g net weight)
3 tbsp lime juice
1½ tbsp coriander leaves, finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
Put the first seven ingredients in a large, high-sided saute pan on a medium-high heat, and toast for a minute, until fragrant. Put the fish in a bowl with one and a half teaspoons of the spice blend, the olive oil and a quarter-teaspoon of salt, gently toss to coat, then leave to marinate for 10 minutes.
Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan, cover with cold, salted water and bring to a boil. Cook for 20 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked through but still holding their shape, then drain.
Return the saute pan to a medium-high heat, add a tablespoon of butter and, once bubbling, fry the fish in two or three batches, so as not to overcrowd the pan, for two minutes a side, until golden brown. Return to the bowl with a slotted spoon, leaving the butter and any released liquid in the pan. Turn the heat to low, add another tablespoon of butter, the shallots and chillies, and fry gently for six to eight minutes, until the onions are soft and golden. Add the garlic, cook for two minutes, stirring often, then stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, and the remaining butter and spice mix. Add the coconut cream, stock, potatoes and half a teaspoon of salt, mix again, and simmer for 25 minutes, until thick and reduced. Meanwhile, mix all the salsa ingredients with a good pinch of salt.
Return the fish to the curry pan, cover and cook for four minutes, until heated through. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of coconut cream over the top, then serve in the pan with the salsa spooned inside the pan or on the side.
The Guardian aims to publish recipes for sustainable fish. For ratings in your region, check: UK; Australia; US.
Roast butternut squash curry
This mildly spiced dish is easy to make, and really showcases the essence of butternut squash, thanks to the fact that it is roasted separately from the sauce. Seasonal pumpkins, sweet potato – or any root vegetable, really – can be used instead of the butternut. The sauce can be made one or two days ahead: just add a splash of water to reheat, because it tends to thicken as it sits.
Prep 15 min
Cook 35 min
Serves 4
1 medium butternut squash (1kg), cut in half lengthways, deseeded, then cut into 1.5cm skin-on half-moons
3½ tbsp olive oil
Salt and black pepper
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into ¼cm-thick rounds
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
1½ tsp tomato paste
1 tbsp mild curry powder
½ tsp garam masala
1 small baking potato, peeled, halved and cut into 5mm-thick slices
1¾ tbsp soy sauce
½ tbsp maple syrup
100g baby spinach
1½ tbsp coriander leaves, roughly chopped
1 red chilli, thinly sliced (deseeded, if you prefer less heat)
2 tsp black sesame seeds
1 lime, cut into 4 wedges
Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/425F/gas 9. In a large bowl, combine the squash with one and a half tablespoons of oil, three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Transfer to two oven trays lined with baking paper and roast for 30 minutes, until cooked through and golden brown, then set aside.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining two tablespoons of oil in a large saute pan on a medium-high flame, then fry the onion and carrot for about seven minutes, until softened and lightly browned.
Add the garlic, ginger, tomato paste and spices, and cook for a minute more, until fragrant.
Add the potato, soy sauce, maple syrup, 850ml water, half a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper, and leave to simmer for 15 minutes, until the liquid has reduced slightly and the vegetables have cooked through.
Tip into a blender (or use a stick blender) and blitz for about a minute, until completely smooth, then pour back into the pan and put on a medium-high heat. Add the spinach, cook for two minutes, until wilted, then gently stir in the roast squash to coat, and cook for four minutes, to heat through.
Divide the curry between four plates, top with the coriander, chilli and sesame seeds, and serve each portion with a wedge of lime.
Tofu and cauliflower ‘korma’
Serve this splendid vegan curry with rice or naan depending on personal preference, and a dollop of dairy-free (or, for non-vegans, regular) yoghurt.
Prep 20 min
Cook 75 min
Serves 4
½ red onion, thinly sliced
2 tbsp lemon juice
Salt and black pepper
40g cashew nuts
20g blanched almonds
120ml olive oil
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2cm piece ginger, peeled and grated
1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 cinnamon stick
6 cardamom pods, shells discarded, seeds roughly crushed in a mortar
2 tsp cumin seeds, roughly crushed in a mortar
2 tsp coriander seeds, roughly crushed in a mortar
¾ tsp ground turmeric
2 tomatoes, grated and skins discarded (180g net weight)
1 large cauliflower, cut into large florets (750g net weight)
15g coriander leaves, roughly chopped
250g extra-firm tofu, crumbled into medium chunks
Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/425F/gas 9. In a small bowl, mix the red onion, a tablespoon of lemon juice and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt.
Put the cashews and almonds in a small saucepan on a medium-high heat, cover with water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium, simmer for 20 minutes, then drain.
Meanwhile, heat one and a half tablespoons of oil in a large saute pan on a medium-high flame, then fry the onion, stirring often, for 10 minutes, until soft and well browned. Transfer to a blender, add the nuts and 200ml water, and blend for two minutes, until very smooth.
Heat another tablespoon and a half of oil in the same pan on a medium-high heat, then fry the garlic, ginger and chilli for a minute. Add the cinnamon, cardamom, a teaspoon each of cumin and coriander seeds, and half a teaspoon of turmeric, and cook, stirring, for a minute. Add the tomatoes, cook for four minutes, until thickened, then add the onion and nut mixture, 500ml water, a teaspoon and a half of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Bring to a simmer, lower the heat to medium and leave to cook for 20 minutes, until reduced by a third.
In a bowl, mix the cauliflower with the remaining quarter-teaspoon of turmeric, three tablespoons of oil, three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Spread out on an oven tray lined with baking paper, and roast for 18 minutes, until cooked through and coloured. Stir into the sauce, add two-thirds of the coriander and the remaining tablespoon of lemon juice, and leave to simmer for five minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining two tablespoons of oil in a medium saute pan on a high flame. Add the tofu, half a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp – about eight minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the remaining teaspoon each of cumin and coriander seeds, and cook for about 30 seconds, until fragrant. Stir half of this mixture into the cauliflower, and reserve the rest.
Transfer the korma to a shallow serving bowl, top with the pickled red onion, followed by the remaining tofu and coriander, and serve.
